24th of August it was still dark when the first pilgrims left the monastery at 6:00 o’clock. We were so much further west by now that actually we were at the same degree of longitude like Dublin, which lies already in a different time zone. But Spain keeps its whole time system connected to the central European time zone all over the country.
The French Canadian group was getting ready to leave, and Sandrine the clergywoman who guided the group still wanted to wish me a good Camino with some confirming words which really touched me. It was very precious to meet someone who appreciates what I was doing with the project of the Less-is-More-Tour and the way I am presenting it and myself. She supported me with some encouraging words that I should not worry about others who are not convinced of what I am doing. I should not waste any energy in trying to persuade them. I should just stay on my own way and keep following it without doubting myself.
I was overwhelmed by the way she strenghtened my confidence and woke me up in my way of thinking about myself and the encounters I am having with people in my life. Especially after a hard time, when you are forced to let go of your employees due to clients not paying the work which was done or clients not respecting the contracts they have signed, a world shatters inside of you and you don’t just lose your trust in mankind but also in yourself. These are the moments on the Camino when suddenly some words bring everything back into light, where you left a dark spot in your heart which you tried not to touch for a long time like you avoid with a healing wound.
After they had their little pilgrim’s devotion we took a photo together in the dawn before they left and said “buen camino” to each other. Robert and I had a breakfast and were ready to hit the road.
Leaving with us was a young Italian called Massimo getting ready on his little Italian Motorbike which was something like the model Ciao from Piaggio, with which he had travelled all the way from Venice on the Camino. He started the engine and left us behind in the typical stinky two-stroke engine cloud. Thanks Ciao Piaggio!
The sun was already up and they had nicely planted trees along the camino so the pilgrims could enjoy some shade, which created beautiful perspectives. At Belcianos del Real Camino we stopped at a coffee place called Belcianos1900 where we wanted to get our first stamp of the day for the credential. But it turned out to be a big hello because our French/Canadian friends Sandrine, Guy, Frederic, Marie, Jean-Eric and Odile were having coffee there. We joined them and had fun together, especially when I mentioned that Guy had an incredible similarity with my former chef Jean Nouvel which everyone confirmed after we compared photos.
When we left the bar Matt the priest just walked by because he had his day off and was doing a part of the Camino just for himself. I thought I had recognized him when I said “Buen Camino” along the way but didn’t dare to disturb him. On our way through the village we also met Jana. Her voice was still not better at all and I recommended her to gargle saltwater. She remembered that her grandmother used to recommend that and totally forgot about it. She will give it a try although it’s disgusting.
La Meseta was again endless fields until the horizon, but this time no wind and therefore combined with an incredible silence. It is so wonderful to be able to try to listen to the calm around you and not put headphones in like several are doing on the Camino. With this permanent input I wonder how people can find the peace within themselves they are actually looking for.
At the entrance of the village of Reliegos we stopped at the first restaurant which was called “La Cantina de Teddy” and it was originally the Doberman of the owner which had that name. I had to send a picture to my dad “Teddy” not being a Doberman but from the family “bear”.
We had another encounter with Carol from Wyoming who saw us having Spanish Tortillas and ordered the same as she missed the eggs of her chicken from her own farm. She was taking the Camino very slow and said everyone must have past her, but she was still keeping up her humour.
Another weird attraction was to discover in Reliegos that on the 28th of December 1947 a meteorite hit in the morning hours in the middle of the road. I was just taking a photo of the monument as I heard two German ladies talking and said to them: “imagine walking along the Camino and you get struck by a meteor”. They looked at the monument and said: “This must be another attraction made up by the tourism board for the Camino.” I had to laugh and answered that I would be interested how their conversations along the Camino would be on a long day. Right in that moment one of the lady said: Are you from Starnberg? I had to confirm because she had read it on my bike. So it hit us like a meteorite, that two Starnbergers just met in the middle of the Meseta, where once an extra-terrestrial object had touched ground.
Talking about all these coincidences caused great laughter about getting to know Ariane from Starnberg. Robert was already far ahead and must have thought what can take Nicolai so long for a photo of a meteorite monument.
Next discovery was the tomato market at Mansilla de las Mullas, where all the farmers and private gardeners sold their most delicious home grown tomatoes.
Reaching the suburbs of León we had to pass through industrial areas with nothing really charming.
Once we had the first chance to see the cathedral of León it was dominated by huge billboards for advertisements along the highway. We still had some kilometres to ride before we reached the old town of León, which was presenting itself with a 2000 years old Roman city wall being integrated into medieval houses, churches or even monasteries. Robert had found a monastery turned into a hotel for us to stay.
The opportunity to have a guitar concert by Juan Hedo for dinner at night sounded like a nice plan for our arrival.
